I think the toughest part of the setup is to set the router bit depth.
"17mm" is what the instructions say we need. And in terms of router
depth, that has to be in addition to thickness of the top plate. As is always the case, the space under the top platform is in
the shadows and very dark so I am not going to be able to see this line.
What we will do is to adjust it somewhat close and expect to come back and
fine tune it.Once we get it absolutely right, I will create a spacer
block to set this depth in the future. There is a different setup required
for the other dovetail key.
Now Elena has mounted that piece of mahogany in the Enlock jig. The
router bit has a pattern bearing which will ride in the top plate cut out.
Here, the router sits comfortably on the jig plate. Elena and I double
checked that the bearing of the router bit was riding against the plate.
If you think the router bit area is dark, the underside is way
darker.
We might fit a small laser on the cut line. There is no slop
allowed with this joining system, so we have to get this right.
It is an easy cut. Simply let the router and the pattern bearing guide the
router.
That is
our first Enlock dovetail key. We will cut another one on the mating
piece and see how well it fits.
Our first Enlock joint — almost.
The little
Enlock dovetail key that you see above is only one half the joint. Elena is
now adding the mating part. It is made to actually spread the dovetail key
and further tighten the joint.
We
have three minor adjustments to make. (A) — shows the space at the top of the
cutout. An adjustment to the router bit depth should fix that. (B) The two
boards don't match up — that we will fix with the cut depth. The jigs plate
can be adjusted but this one may be because Elena didn't cut all the way in.
(C) the second piece of the key is proud of the board surface. These are easy to fix and once done, our
future key locks should be right on. Next week, I will do beaded face
frames — this should make them easier and stronger.