"New Product - CMT Enlock Joining System"

   I think the toughest part of the setup is to set the router bit depth. "17mm" is what the instructions say  we need. And in terms of router depth, that has to be in addition to thickness of the top plate.
  
As is always the case, the space under the top platform is in the shadows and very dark so I am not going to be able to see this line. What we will do is to adjust it somewhat close and expect to come back and fine tune it. Once we get it absolutely right, I will create a spacer block to set this depth in the future. There is a different setup required for the other dovetail key.
                

      Now Elena has mounted that piece of mahogany in the Enlock jig.  The router bit has a pattern bearing which will ride in the top plate cut out.

     Here, the router sits comfortably on the jig plate. Elena and I double checked that the bearing of the router bit was riding against the plate.
   If you think the router bit area is dark, the underside is way darker.
   We might fit a small laser on the cut line. There is no slop allowed with this joining system, so we have to get this right.

   It is an easy cut. Simply let the router and the pattern bearing guide the router.         

        That is our first Enlock dovetail key.  We will cut another one on the mating piece and see how well it fits.

          Our first Enlock joint — almost.

        The little Enlock dovetail key that you see above is only one half the joint. Elena is now adding the mating part. It is made to actually spread the dovetail key and further tighten the joint.

   

         We have three minor adjustments to make. (A) — shows the space at the top of the cutout. An adjustment to the router bit depth should fix that. (B) The two boards don't match up — that we will fix with the cut depth. The jigs plate can be adjusted but this one may be because Elena didn't cut all the way in. (C) the second piece of the key is proud of the board surface.
   These are easy to fix and once done, our future key locks should be right on.  Next week, I will do beaded face frames — this should make them easier and stronger.

 

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